Day 38-Burgos to Formister. 62 miles

A heavy day yesterday with a diversion over 2 large hills to avoid the main road, but very beautiful and snow was only just above me. Burgos also remains high at 856 metres. Looked around the city this morning: a cathedral, castle, plazas with cafes (mainly shut), heaps of stacked chairs, shoe shops and for some reason, numerous lingerie shops. Also, lots of traffic. Made my way out along a mini version of a river with ducks on  into a very beautiful high open plateau-like countryside; very little traffic, so a real treat for cycling. Staying at a refugee en route. Now I must explain that all the walkers on this route seem to spend their evenings " doing their  washing", but shame on me, I have been wearing the same old clothes. However, the rough stone outdoor sinks appealed to me so I have washed my cycle shorts, t-shirt and undies- I knew you just had to know that! I will also add that I have already had my fill of churches. I visted one yesterday because my guidebook stated that their were hens and chickens in it, but I was disappointed to find that they were just carvings and not real at all.

Navarette to Burgos 78 miles

Left Navarette on my very good road which continued for another 10 k until I reached the end of the current motorway development at which point heavy  traffic rejoins the road, making for an unpleasant cavalcade of lorries. Had to get away from this!  The next town   (Domingo de San ........?)  at 15k from Navarette was a good place to stop for  a coffee and croissant and to buy a map.  Left  here and using smaller hill roads continued on my way- a longer route but so much nicer! Passed thru' hill towns with their little churches and heard cuckoos. Caught in a heavy rainstorm. Met up with some other travellers absolutely plastered in this gypsum like mud. Returned to main route to enter Burgos and was shown way to refuge next to cathedral by locals.Unfortunately, I must have lost my Pilgrim's Passport somewhere today but they let me stay here anyway-I have had to buy another one. Really nice place-quite modern inside, but only 3 Euros!

Day 36- Estella to Navarette 36m

Wonderful cycling on this road. The newly constructed motorway that runs roughly in parallel  has drawn off all the cars & lorries, making it a cyclists' dream.  Also, cooler today with some rain- a relief after yesterday's heat. However, by the time I was approaching the large, built up town of Logrono, I got lost as my road merged with main roads and had to ask locals where I should be going.

This is now Rioja country and I passed many large vineyards . The Spanish wine producers seem to have been more successful at organizing and promoting their wine market and take a different approach to the French. They combine into cooperatives which generally means much larger, almost industrial scale production, in contrast with the many small, individual vineyards and chateux of France. Passed many fields of olive trees, too.

As it was Sunday, many families were  having their meals outside, often spreading tablecloths under trees, etc. It was lovely to see. 

Staying tonight in a really nice, relaxed hostel with cooking facilities for just 5 Euros.

day 35 Zubiri to Estella 52 miles

Started early to make the most of the cool of the day. Came across a very busy main road heading to Pamploma with no obvious alternative. Fortunately, a young cyclist from London managed to discover an apparently hidden and unmarked cycle route which went most of the way. There was much construction work  underway in and around Pamploma. Many streets were up,  cranes were  visible all around and buildings  were covered in scaffolding  . Recently constructed motorway on the way out now  means that the old "A" road, complete with 3 traffic lanes in places plus marked cycle lane, had nothing on except for cyclists motorbikes and very rare local traffic! Travelling through old hill top villages and old stone built towns to reach this deceptively medium sized town. Saturday night so many families strolling around the streets. It is very hot and a lot of breaks are necessary.Tonight I am staying in another refuge hostel ( only 5.5 euros for the night including cooking facilities-not bad!)

Day 34 St Jean de pied port to zubiri 36 miles

Had a rest day yesterday.  Looked at the castle and in the shops. Ate. The French are very keen on their dogs and  grooming parlours are present even in small villages- lots of yappy terriers. In fact in each place I have stayed I have been made to feel at home by adopting my own personal cat or by being adopted by the local dog.
So today Matthew left and I am back to cycling by myself.  Started on a gentle gradient uphill and thought to myself this is nothing compared with Slocht Summit in the Cairngorms. However the gradient continues to rise up hill and continues for at least 17 kilometers. But I  held my own and  even overtook some other cyclists. Misty at the top with poor visibility so no view and I had to have my lights on. The route I was told is part of the Tour de France. It is very companionable meeting other cyclists as you always have a chat- (lucky English is the common language). Decided to stop before tackling the road systems around Pampaloma so am staying  at this refuge for just 6 euros a night - but I do not think my brother John would be impressed. Things are looking up though as the 2 cyclists from Luxemberg I passed earlier have arrived 

( they could not find a local campsight) so are away to the shop to find some wine. The weather is now very hot it is good to be in Spain;things are less formal than France and a bit cheaper. Incidently I am not quite sure when I crossed the border as there was no sign.

Day 32 Sauvelaide to St Jean De Port .52 miles

Yesterday's total was 46 miles, so that means officially I have cycled 1497 miles to get to this last stop in France- and the old pilgrim gateway to Spain. However, what with cycing around during my week's holiday, I have certainly done more. Having a rest day here.  Matthew goes home tomorrow and  then I head over the pass into Spain. I  have obtained my pilgrims passport so that I can use the refuges en route and am now set to do the Camino de Santiago, hoping to reach the Atlantic coast. I have got 3 weeks left. This town is much nicer than I expected. I thought it might be a bit tacky,  but not the case. Now keep seeing a lot of professional looking cyclists and feel like sticking a sign on my back saying "You might be overtaking me but I have cycled from Inverness!".

Day 31 Aire_sur l Adour to sauvelaide

Continue to cycle with Matthew who has to struggle with this old mountain style bike we managed to obtain. Some initial main road cycling but then onto small roads travelling through sleepy villages. Now on the Camino de Santiago route so passing lots of walkers plus more places to spend the night. Stayed in a hostel type place near an old Benedictine abbey; Quite a young couple running it however and a good meal included in the stay. Left early to avoid the heat and am now in the old fortified town of Navarrenx; it is market day and a very tempting display of food is on offer- shame I can not carry more than a picnic lunch. Pyrenees now visible in the distance with snow on top. 48 miles