Day43 - Triacastela to Melide. 64 miles

Total mileage is now 0ver two thousand miles (not kilometers). Began cycling with the young Basque cyclist who had helped me with directions the day before. Please note that because I was cycling with him and two Spaniards the day before I had to cycle down the hairpin bends from the 1337 metre Alto de Poyo at breakneck speed but I was still last, probably because I did clench the breaks at times. Sometimes pays to be last.... pasta tea had been cooked by the time I had my shower!

Today lots of ups and downs in  forested countryside. Very hot in the morning,  so I  stopped for a rather longish 8 Euro/ 3 course lunch. Did not drink much of the included wine, unlike my cycling companion, which is perhaps why he vanished; probably fell asleep somewhere! Trouble finding somewhere to spend the night and eventually ended up cycling  long  distance to large town with municipal hostel. Very good only 3 Euros. Have come across a German couple who I met about 5 days ago and it's quite nice seeing people again -like meeting old friends!

Day 42-Ponferreda to Triacastella . 52 m

Cycled over an enormous hill,  1337 m at Alto de Poyo.  In country of Galacia now, so very reminiscent of Scotland:there is a heather-like covering to the hills and the people here wear kilts and play bagpipes!  I have seen thatched houses also, so quite a distinct region of Spain. A very steep descent down hairpin bends was quite  nerve wracking.  Met up with a young Basque cyclist, Tomas, who also was having problems following the recognised route. Managed to pick up the correct direction eventually.We got to a possible refuge at El Ceribo, which looked really nice, but it was a bit early in the day and as they were giving priority to walkers when allocating accommodation,. decided to push on to next place. Sharing  meal and wine this evening with some fellow cyclists . Very hot today.

Day 41 -Hospital de Orbigo to Ponferrada. 48 miles

Cycled through Astorga, saw the outside of Gaudie's Bishops' Palace and took photos, but sadly it was too early to go round. Then great cycle ride over hills again. Through the Mounts de Leon and over the summit at Cruz de Ferro at 1517 meters. The inhabitants of the small villages along the way are known as Margatans and used to be the muleteers of Spain. I managed to cycle to the top without having to push the bike, passing other cyclists. Apparently I am now recognised because I am cycling on my own and had to have my photo taken with various groups at the top. However...... pride comes before a fall!    I was so terrified by the steep descent that I ended up in places pushing the bike (or sometimes simply stopping my bike falling down) and those very people kept offering me help as they thought there must be something wrong with the bike. To justify myself, the grip in my left hand is now limited as 6 weeks of clutching breaks and moving gears has given me a kind of repetive strain injury!  Now staying in larger town-refuge donations only. Vines growing on hillsides again, castle of the Knights' Templar dominating the town.

Day 40 -Sahagun to Hospital de Orbigo. 52 miles

My extended cycle route worked really well and was not much longer than the official route.But I have successfully bypassed the busy Leon. Initially it was flat windswept countryside dotted with crumbling brown mud coloured buildings. But what a treat! I reached the town of Valencia de Don Juan, which had a perfect picture postcard castle and a beautiful river which swept around the town and a bonus for me - it was market day. What a market!  There were stalls selling only apples, or honey or dried fish  (too early to carry home for Dalia) or stalls selling cheeses, meats of all description and much else. Laden down with fruit and a jar of dark mountain honey I cycled on through land divided by canal or water carrying/irrigation channels, past storks wading in the marshy ground and birds of prey occasionally appearing overhead. Entered this small town over the stone bridge with 20 arches... one of the oldest in Spain. For 5 Euros I booked into a refuge with shady courtyard and garden.
Most evenings I end up sharing a meal with others but last night was more of a party with a group of not so young Italians, a Swiss woman who acted as interpreter and an American woman who wants to visit the Findhorn Foundation (and did not drink any of the wine). In other words great to cycle by myself but company when needed in the evenings

Day 39- Fromista to Sahagun. 40 miles

Short half day today along quiet, straight but dull road.  Taking a break this afternoon because I have been planning a wee diversion for tomorrow to avoid Leon- I cannot face cycling thru' another city with heavy traffic. Suspect my diversion will involve more mileage but it should also be more interesting for me. The town I am staying in sounds like a Jackie Chan movie, and entering it felt like coming into one of those 1950's midwestern American towns: warm, dusty, with whitewashed square concrete buildings and railway tracks. Whole place has the air of stagnant decay.

Day 38-Burgos to Formister. 62 miles

A heavy day yesterday with a diversion over 2 large hills to avoid the main road, but very beautiful and snow was only just above me. Burgos also remains high at 856 metres. Looked around the city this morning: a cathedral, castle, plazas with cafes (mainly shut), heaps of stacked chairs, shoe shops and for some reason, numerous lingerie shops. Also, lots of traffic. Made my way out along a mini version of a river with ducks on  into a very beautiful high open plateau-like countryside; very little traffic, so a real treat for cycling. Staying at a refugee en route. Now I must explain that all the walkers on this route seem to spend their evenings " doing their  washing", but shame on me, I have been wearing the same old clothes. However, the rough stone outdoor sinks appealed to me so I have washed my cycle shorts, t-shirt and undies- I knew you just had to know that! I will also add that I have already had my fill of churches. I visted one yesterday because my guidebook stated that their were hens and chickens in it, but I was disappointed to find that they were just carvings and not real at all.

Navarette to Burgos 78 miles

Left Navarette on my very good road which continued for another 10 k until I reached the end of the current motorway development at which point heavy  traffic rejoins the road, making for an unpleasant cavalcade of lorries. Had to get away from this!  The next town   (Domingo de San ........?)  at 15k from Navarette was a good place to stop for  a coffee and croissant and to buy a map.  Left  here and using smaller hill roads continued on my way- a longer route but so much nicer! Passed thru' hill towns with their little churches and heard cuckoos. Caught in a heavy rainstorm. Met up with some other travellers absolutely plastered in this gypsum like mud. Returned to main route to enter Burgos and was shown way to refuge next to cathedral by locals.Unfortunately, I must have lost my Pilgrim's Passport somewhere today but they let me stay here anyway-I have had to buy another one. Really nice place-quite modern inside, but only 3 Euros!

Day 36- Estella to Navarette 36m

Wonderful cycling on this road. The newly constructed motorway that runs roughly in parallel  has drawn off all the cars & lorries, making it a cyclists' dream.  Also, cooler today with some rain- a relief after yesterday's heat. However, by the time I was approaching the large, built up town of Logrono, I got lost as my road merged with main roads and had to ask locals where I should be going.

This is now Rioja country and I passed many large vineyards . The Spanish wine producers seem to have been more successful at organizing and promoting their wine market and take a different approach to the French. They combine into cooperatives which generally means much larger, almost industrial scale production, in contrast with the many small, individual vineyards and chateux of France. Passed many fields of olive trees, too.

As it was Sunday, many families were  having their meals outside, often spreading tablecloths under trees, etc. It was lovely to see. 

Staying tonight in a really nice, relaxed hostel with cooking facilities for just 5 Euros.

day 35 Zubiri to Estella 52 miles

Started early to make the most of the cool of the day. Came across a very busy main road heading to Pamploma with no obvious alternative. Fortunately, a young cyclist from London managed to discover an apparently hidden and unmarked cycle route which went most of the way. There was much construction work  underway in and around Pamploma. Many streets were up,  cranes were  visible all around and buildings  were covered in scaffolding  . Recently constructed motorway on the way out now  means that the old "A" road, complete with 3 traffic lanes in places plus marked cycle lane, had nothing on except for cyclists motorbikes and very rare local traffic! Travelling through old hill top villages and old stone built towns to reach this deceptively medium sized town. Saturday night so many families strolling around the streets. It is very hot and a lot of breaks are necessary.Tonight I am staying in another refuge hostel ( only 5.5 euros for the night including cooking facilities-not bad!)

Day 34 St Jean de pied port to zubiri 36 miles

Had a rest day yesterday.  Looked at the castle and in the shops. Ate. The French are very keen on their dogs and  grooming parlours are present even in small villages- lots of yappy terriers. In fact in each place I have stayed I have been made to feel at home by adopting my own personal cat or by being adopted by the local dog.
So today Matthew left and I am back to cycling by myself.  Started on a gentle gradient uphill and thought to myself this is nothing compared with Slocht Summit in the Cairngorms. However the gradient continues to rise up hill and continues for at least 17 kilometers. But I  held my own and  even overtook some other cyclists. Misty at the top with poor visibility so no view and I had to have my lights on. The route I was told is part of the Tour de France. It is very companionable meeting other cyclists as you always have a chat- (lucky English is the common language). Decided to stop before tackling the road systems around Pampaloma so am staying  at this refuge for just 6 euros a night - but I do not think my brother John would be impressed. Things are looking up though as the 2 cyclists from Luxemberg I passed earlier have arrived 

( they could not find a local campsight) so are away to the shop to find some wine. The weather is now very hot it is good to be in Spain;things are less formal than France and a bit cheaper. Incidently I am not quite sure when I crossed the border as there was no sign.

Day 32 Sauvelaide to St Jean De Port .52 miles

Yesterday's total was 46 miles, so that means officially I have cycled 1497 miles to get to this last stop in France- and the old pilgrim gateway to Spain. However, what with cycing around during my week's holiday, I have certainly done more. Having a rest day here.  Matthew goes home tomorrow and  then I head over the pass into Spain. I  have obtained my pilgrims passport so that I can use the refuges en route and am now set to do the Camino de Santiago, hoping to reach the Atlantic coast. I have got 3 weeks left. This town is much nicer than I expected. I thought it might be a bit tacky,  but not the case. Now keep seeing a lot of professional looking cyclists and feel like sticking a sign on my back saying "You might be overtaking me but I have cycled from Inverness!".

Day 31 Aire_sur l Adour to sauvelaide

Continue to cycle with Matthew who has to struggle with this old mountain style bike we managed to obtain. Some initial main road cycling but then onto small roads travelling through sleepy villages. Now on the Camino de Santiago route so passing lots of walkers plus more places to spend the night. Stayed in a hostel type place near an old Benedictine abbey; Quite a young couple running it however and a good meal included in the stay. Left early to avoid the heat and am now in the old fortified town of Navarrenx; it is market day and a very tempting display of food is on offer- shame I can not carry more than a picnic lunch. Pyrenees now visible in the distance with snow on top. 48 miles

Mezin to Aire-S-L'Adout

Hotel last night, although probably only " a 2 star ", provided a very good meal with bottle of wine, so that was quite an unexpected treat!  Today, a trip to one of France's numerous pharmacies  in order to replenish my sunscreen, as the hot weather continues. We are obviously nearing the Pyrenees and Spain as this town has a bullring. Passed numbers of pilgrims today on the Camino bound walk.    44 miles.

Sunday 17 May Eymet to Mezin

Today we leave holiday cottage and say our farewells to Kath the owner (and her pets) to continue the cycle trip.  Matthew is with me on a recently purchased secondhand mountain bike, which is fairly hard going as we are on roads all the time. Strawberry fields give way to miles of natural , mixed forest. Headed for Mezin as it looked on the map like a reasonably big town that would have accommodation and meals, which it does! Booked into a small bar/hotel. 

52 miles today.

Eymet

Having a good weeks' break in Eymet, near Bergerac- still cycling however. Continue the cycle to Spain hopefully with Matthew on Sunday. 

Day 16 to Day 21 through France

Having trouble finding internet access and when I do getting it to work -so finally an update.

Got the ferry with no problems, taken onto the boat first with the Harley Davidson motorbikes. Had a meal in the cafeteria and was called over to sit with a lady going to visit her French property who just insisted I share her bottle of wine with her; cabin to myself so I got a sleep. No problems getting out of St Malmo, headed south into very quiet open country,stayed to the west of Rennes, and stayed at Prelan-le-Grand in Brittany 65 miles.
Day 17 to Anciens on the Loire 84 miles but beautiful quiet cycling on b roads loads of wild flowerrs very green, sounds of bullfrogs, cricketts but few cars, deer crossing the road. Crossed the river.

Monument to French Resistance

Day 18 66 miles cycling through Loire wine country, as Lou Reid said 'its just a perfect day' stayed at a b anb equivalent, but ate with the lovely host family, different wine with each course, a real hardship.

Ruined castle at St Germain de Confolens

at Sothern end of R. Vienne

Day 19 reached the Vienne river and cycled part way down, wide valley and quite flat, avoiding large towns where possible; stayed at a 'B and B' that was the home of the descendents of the scientist Camille Guerin who invented the BCG vaccine. They were very hospitable and kindly gave me a personal tour of the family momentos.

Day 20- To Mountbeof,  hilly central French countryside. 90 plus miles as trying to reach Bergerac by Saturday and could not find anywhere to stay- eventually directed to the equivalent of a Y.H.A. I thought great, but it was all booked by a family reunion party. However they would not let me leave and insisted I try each family member's food and drink speciality and what can I say .....I gatecrashed their party!
Day 21, an epic 107 miles to reach Eymet below Bergerac left at 07.30 and did not arrive until 20.30 shattered. Throughout the day I had passed and then been overtaken  by  2 Belgian cyclists who were cycling to Spain. Their gps navigation system might have saved me a few miles. 

 

Now have a weeks' holiday before resuming cycle trip next sunday with Matthew Hopefully photos to follow

Day 14 -Reading to Portsmouth

Portsmouth bound with Daniel for company and the weather is perfect for cycling!

Day 13 - Banbury (Milcombe) to Reading, 54 Miles

Beautiful day cycling through English countryside with Daniel passing cricket fields, Renault F1, bypassed Oxford and crossed the River Thames. Daniel didn't make me feel I was holding him up.

Arrived in Reading in good time to have a look around. Walked along the river and saw goslings and ducklings and passed Reading Gaol where Oscar Wilde spent time. Helen (niece) and parnter Nick have just arrived and we are having fish pie for dinner.

On to Portsmouth and overnight ferry to France tomorrow.

Day 12 -Worcester to Milcombe/Banbury. 43 miles

Keith, Daniel, Christine and Tilley

Began off wearing my waterproofs but gentle refreshing rain mostly- not like the torrent in Whitchchurch. Gentle rides through country roads to Broadway.All villages seem to be having blubell teas this weekend; all very English rural scenery and villages.
Enjoyed tea in a very proper tea room(tablecloths) and watched the locals outside-designer tripod compulsory. I began in Worcestershire,cycled through Gloucestershire,Warickshire to Oxfordshire ...a lot of hills on the second part of the route.now relaxing for day off with John and Christine and Tilley the dog.(brother and sister in-law.)

day 12 no miles, rest day.i am expecting son, Keith and nephew Daniel with fancy French racing bike to arrive this evening,i have a horrible feeling he will expect me to keep up with him on road to Reading tomorrow.