End of Trip.

Day 47 . Reached the Atlantic coast yesterday and a good finishing point at Finisterre. I have cycled 2117 miles and exceeded my original target of reaching Santander. I would like to carry on down to Portugal, but  have a flight booked home for next week. Anyway, I am told the route South is heavy with traffic. So I will spend the few remaining days cycling and walking along this beautiful North West coast of Spain and end this blog here. Thank you to everyone who has supported me, and followed my progress.

Day 44 - Melide to Santiago de Compestela. 32 miles

Short cycle because I got so far the day before. Reached  the end of the pilgrims route by 11 am in the morning with plenty of time to look around this  lovely old city with cobbled streets. Obtained my certificate to show I have completed the pilgrim's Route. Had to fill in a form,  so just ticked boxes  and ended up with a Catholic certificate in Latin, but as I was baptised  probably its o.k.
Now I have to say that I have met with nothing but kindness along the way so I will tell you the story of the puncture repair kit to illustrate how things work. Given to me by Jon (4A) not required as yet by me, but sitting having a coffee and someone (I don't know what nationality) is obviously trying to obtain one. So, I lend him mine, sit on and on and it is not returned! So I continue cycling.Then towards the end of the day some speedo cyclist overtakes me and then returns and says he has been asked to give me this back (never seen him before or since) I have my kit back! Then in hostel in Santiago in the morning, I am watching a little family with 2 small kids cooking a large breakfast, when Papa appears (the guy who borrowed the kit).  It was for the child trailer on the back which had got badly punctured from glass on side of road- result.... I get cooked breakfast (there was plenty)!

Day 45   Santiago de Compestela to Cree.   52 miles.

Morning in the city then had enough, so started on the cycle out to Finisterre. A beautiful route through euclyptus forests; a definite Portugese feel in the air. Spent night in Cree on the Atlantic coast in small hotel -what a treat after all those hostels. Booked for 2 nights as arrived late and wanted a rest then..........

Day 46- Today have arrived and been to the lighthouse at Finisterre,  the most Westerly point in mainland Europe and the end of the old known world. 11 miles cycling to get there. Arrived in morning so missed crowds but bumped into Briggetta and Michael, the German couple so have spent day walking around the area with them. Very like the West coast of Scotland here. Have now to return to Cee.

Day43 - Triacastela to Melide. 64 miles

Total mileage is now 0ver two thousand miles (not kilometers). Began cycling with the young Basque cyclist who had helped me with directions the day before. Please note that because I was cycling with him and two Spaniards the day before I had to cycle down the hairpin bends from the 1337 metre Alto de Poyo at breakneck speed but I was still last, probably because I did clench the breaks at times. Sometimes pays to be last.... pasta tea had been cooked by the time I had my shower!

Today lots of ups and downs in  forested countryside. Very hot in the morning,  so I  stopped for a rather longish 8 Euro/ 3 course lunch. Did not drink much of the included wine, unlike my cycling companion, which is perhaps why he vanished; probably fell asleep somewhere! Trouble finding somewhere to spend the night and eventually ended up cycling  long  distance to large town with municipal hostel. Very good only 3 Euros. Have come across a German couple who I met about 5 days ago and it's quite nice seeing people again -like meeting old friends!

Day 42-Ponferreda to Triacastella . 52 m

Cycled over an enormous hill,  1337 m at Alto de Poyo.  In country of Galacia now, so very reminiscent of Scotland:there is a heather-like covering to the hills and the people here wear kilts and play bagpipes!  I have seen thatched houses also, so quite a distinct region of Spain. A very steep descent down hairpin bends was quite  nerve wracking.  Met up with a young Basque cyclist, Tomas, who also was having problems following the recognised route. Managed to pick up the correct direction eventually.We got to a possible refuge at El Ceribo, which looked really nice, but it was a bit early in the day and as they were giving priority to walkers when allocating accommodation,. decided to push on to next place. Sharing  meal and wine this evening with some fellow cyclists . Very hot today.

Day 41 -Hospital de Orbigo to Ponferrada. 48 miles

Cycled through Astorga, saw the outside of Gaudie's Bishops' Palace and took photos, but sadly it was too early to go round. Then great cycle ride over hills again. Through the Mounts de Leon and over the summit at Cruz de Ferro at 1517 meters. The inhabitants of the small villages along the way are known as Margatans and used to be the muleteers of Spain. I managed to cycle to the top without having to push the bike, passing other cyclists. Apparently I am now recognised because I am cycling on my own and had to have my photo taken with various groups at the top. However...... pride comes before a fall!    I was so terrified by the steep descent that I ended up in places pushing the bike (or sometimes simply stopping my bike falling down) and those very people kept offering me help as they thought there must be something wrong with the bike. To justify myself, the grip in my left hand is now limited as 6 weeks of clutching breaks and moving gears has given me a kind of repetive strain injury!  Now staying in larger town-refuge donations only. Vines growing on hillsides again, castle of the Knights' Templar dominating the town.

Day 40 -Sahagun to Hospital de Orbigo. 52 miles

My extended cycle route worked really well and was not much longer than the official route.But I have successfully bypassed the busy Leon. Initially it was flat windswept countryside dotted with crumbling brown mud coloured buildings. But what a treat! I reached the town of Valencia de Don Juan, which had a perfect picture postcard castle and a beautiful river which swept around the town and a bonus for me - it was market day. What a market!  There were stalls selling only apples, or honey or dried fish  (too early to carry home for Dalia) or stalls selling cheeses, meats of all description and much else. Laden down with fruit and a jar of dark mountain honey I cycled on through land divided by canal or water carrying/irrigation channels, past storks wading in the marshy ground and birds of prey occasionally appearing overhead. Entered this small town over the stone bridge with 20 arches... one of the oldest in Spain. For 5 Euros I booked into a refuge with shady courtyard and garden.
Most evenings I end up sharing a meal with others but last night was more of a party with a group of not so young Italians, a Swiss woman who acted as interpreter and an American woman who wants to visit the Findhorn Foundation (and did not drink any of the wine). In other words great to cycle by myself but company when needed in the evenings

Day 39- Fromista to Sahagun. 40 miles

Short half day today along quiet, straight but dull road.  Taking a break this afternoon because I have been planning a wee diversion for tomorrow to avoid Leon- I cannot face cycling thru' another city with heavy traffic. Suspect my diversion will involve more mileage but it should also be more interesting for me. The town I am staying in sounds like a Jackie Chan movie, and entering it felt like coming into one of those 1950's midwestern American towns: warm, dusty, with whitewashed square concrete buildings and railway tracks. Whole place has the air of stagnant decay.